Saturday, July 7, 2012

Day 31 - The Umlat Says "Ooo"

On Saturday, Genevieve planned to spend most of the day studying, but she took a break around lunch to go with me and a friend to the Mütter Museum.

More on that picture later
The Mütter Museum is part of the College of Physicians of Philadelphia and is very similar to the Bone Room, but with less touching, more medical information, and more respect.

They prohibit picture taking but I took notes all along the way. We spent several hours there, but we could have spent much more. It is a small museum, but it is packed with specimens!


There is a tour available by calling a number on your cell phone and punching in the number of what you're looking at.

The museum begins with a wall of skulls:


That floor continues on to a second room that is home to the Soap Lady. The Soap Lady experienced the rare confluence of conditions that leads to the body becoming adipocere, essentially turning into soap.


On the other side of that room was an exhibit that the tour guide from DC would love. It's called "This Dust Used to Be a Man: The Final Days of Abraham Lincoln."


The exhibit featured body parts that went through the same trauma as Lincoln and his killer, John Wilkes Booth.

They even had an official piece of the man. A small piece of something in a jar was sitting next to a sign reading, "Piece of the thorax of John Wilkes Booth."

The exhibit then blended into an exhibit of other assassinations, including a "Piece of epidermis (skin) from the back of President Garfield."

Along the ledge leading downstairs, there were pieces of animal skeletons. Including a hand from a gorilla (Latin name: gorilla gorilla gorilla) and the skull of a turtle which looks exactly like what you think a turtle skull would look like:


Downstairs, there were sections highlighting deformities of birth and the reproductive system, the digestive system, full sized skeletons, and the circulatory system.

I spent the most of my time in the reproductive section. There are clearly so many ways reproduction can go wrong, it's amazing how often it goes right.

It turns out that the picture the museum uses on its brochure (featured above) is an ectopic pregnancy -- a pregnancy from outside the uterus. The actual specimen is a few inches across. The note below explained that historically, ectopic pregnancies were the cause of 26% of maternal deaths and left 70% of patients infertile. So ladies, if you have one-sided shooting pains that radiate up to the shoulder or down to the thigh, get thee to a doctor post haste!

There was an example of a birthing stool that explained how we ladies really aren't meant to give birth alone. We, unlike any other animal, most often give birth with the baby facing away, making it enormously awkward to reach down and pull the baby up.

On the other side of the display, were example of children, infant, and fetal malformations. Included was the skull of a boy who had hydrocephalus (water on the brain) the condition the waiter in Atlanta is trying to treat because his brother has it, too.

Treatment has come a long way, but before it did, the pressure of the non-draining spinal fluid would cause the skull to expand to dramatic size. The example on hand had a circumference of 27'. That's the size of my waist!

And on the subject of waists, they had examples of skeletons that had practiced the art of corseting. The one on display had a waist circumference of under 20".


Of course, some people are still practicing tight-lace corseting today. One of the smallest waists in the world belongs to this woman who literally looks like an hourglass:


Standing in the middle of the floor was a cast of Chang and Eng, the world's most famous conjoined twins.


It may look like it's just a small amount of skin that joined the brothers, but they actually shared a liver. The giant liver is on display in a puddle of liquid under the cast.

In the corner were three skeletons striking in their comparison. There was a dwarf named Mary Ashbury who was forced into prostitution and died in 1856 while giving birth. Next to her was an average sized human for comparison, and next to them, was the skeleton of a man who stood 7'6".

After passing some more oddities -- including a "jar of skin" and a "70 lb ovarian cyst" -- we ended up in the gift shop. I picked up a müg, but declined to purchase the Soap Lady soap, as I think it is in pretty bad taste.


At the counter under glass, I found two pieces of jewelry that I had to see up close. The first was a pendant of a skeletal hand made from the freely given fingernails of the artist:


You can buy your very own discarded fingernail masterpiece here.

Next to that was what I was really interested in:


A silver pelvis!

No Indian or Chinese people were harmed in the making of this necklace . . . I think. 

I put it on and looked in the mirror for a while. What better way to end this trip than to buy that long desired pelvis, but one that never lived inside a person!

I ultimately decided that my $70 could be better spent elsewhere. That telling this story would be good enough, and that if I really wanted one, I could talk to my dad. (And maybe she should start designing one anyway, as according to the interwebs, the pelvis is the new skull!)

After the museum, we went to Village Whiskey because Genevieve and her friend wanted to try the duck fat fries. They split the fries and a burger, and I had a feast of my own. I had the veggie burger, homemade cheese puffs, and a blueberry pie milkshake. The were all fantastic and when our checks came, we realized it was part of the same group that owns Distrito, the restaurant where we ate last night. 

After lunch, Genevieve and I returned to her apartment so she could get back to studying and I could look into getting that bang trim. 

Back in December, I had my hair cut right before I left Portand for Philadelphia. Afterward, I noticed that my bangs didn't seem to be even, but I figured it was just the way I'd styled them and figured they'd work themselves out. In Pennsylvania, I still couldn't get them even and realized it was because they'd been cut unevenly. My mom confirmed the lopsidery and we searched for a salon that could get me in on our way back to the hotel from breakfast. 

We ended up find a salon that could take me and the stylist who cut my hair took more time and was more precise than any bang trim I'd ever before received in my life! She stood in front of me looked at me from all angles making small snips along the way. 

As she leaned in front of me, I noticed how beautiful her hair was. Long and blond with soft curls. "Your hair is just beautiful," I said, "Is it all yours?"

It was, and it wasn't until I returned back to the hotel that I realized how rude that question was. I was hoping to make an appointment with the same stylist, and seven months after the fact, apologize and make amends.

Unfortunately, it seems the salon closed down in the last seven months and I don't know how I would get in touch with her again. So, I'll have to settle for putting this apology out into the universe: To the hair stylist who did such a fantastic job fixing my bangs, I apologize for doubting the authenticity of your hair. I'm sorry.

I decided I could wait another day and ask my cousin in Beverly where she recommends. 

When dinner time rolled around, I was so excited to go back to the site of the last amazing meal I had in Philadelphia last December. Genevieve invited all of her roommates and two of them agreed to join us -- the third decided to stay home and bake a blueberry pie from scratch!

We began our walk to the White Dog Cafe. My mother and I had saved it for the last night of our stay and it seemed appropriate to eat there on, essentially, the last night of my cross-country adventure. 

They specialize in fresh, local food, and the last time I was there, I ordered three side dishes of delectable winter favorites. I had the broccoli rabe, fingerling potatoes, and the creamiest, cheesiest, most amazing Brussels sprouts ever. 

The best part of my meal, though, was dessert. 

It's never been a secret that I enjoy pepper. Whenever a waiter offers me fresh ground pepper, he stands there for a good while until my plate is mostly grey and speckly. It is by far my favorite spice. And while I have sprinkled pepper onto many different dishes, I have never had it served to me as an ice cream. Black pepper ice cream! I . . . was . . . in . . . heaven.

This time, there was a whole new dinner menu, but I had my fingers crossed that the dessert menu had stayed the same. I even asked the waiter if he could bring me the dessert menu before the meal. And while black pepper ice cream was not available this time, it gives me another reason to visit again in December. And homemade blueberry pie is not a bad alternative.

For dinner, we stuck with the side dishes. Two of us at the table were vegetarians and we each chose a veggie dish with the promise to share. I ordered the snow peas (because I really like saying snow peas) and she ordered the curried cauliflower. The two omnivores at the table strategized to order different dishes and share, but in the end, they both couldn't turn down the lobster macaroni and cheese and ordered one apiece. 

During dinner, the classmates discussed their other classmates. There is a wide range of ages, but most of them are in their early to mid-twenties. These women are all similar in age, meaning they are all a good deal younger than me. 

I've had friends older than me, but it was seldom really noticeable. I was surprised that our age difference became noticeable at the table when they began talking about what PBS shows they watched as kids. They watched Arthur and Ghost Writer. I watched the Electric Company and Square One. None of them had even heard of Square One! I feel so sorry that these woman have never known the numeric joys of Mathnet. 


After our scrumptious dinner, we walked home and were welcomed by the smell of freshly baked pie. Genevieve's roommate served it with a heaping scoop of vanilla ice cream and we all sat around "Mmmm"ing until it was all gone.

Another wonderful day spent with good people and good food.

Tomorrow, I make the final leg of my journey. Boston (Beverly) or bust!


Odometer Start: 40850
Odometer End: 40850
Miles Driven Today: 0
Miles Driven Total: 7012
Today In/Around: Philadelphia, PA
Tomorrow: (Last Stop) Beverly, MA
States Visited: 18.5 (Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Tennessee, Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania)
Time When I Would Not Want to Be a Nurse (or a Patient): the 1800s
Pictures of Horrible Skin Deformities I Did Not Feature Here: Many

Friday, July 6, 2012

Day 30 - Pheel the Love

On Friday, I returned to Philadelphia for the fourth time.

My first visit was part of the traditional eighth grade eastern seaboard trip. We sped through and all I have are vague memories of some sort of cheesy steak sandwich and something about a big bell.

My second time in Philly was part of the spring break mentioned earlier that also took me to Washington DC. I was mostly interested in visiting my friend Sarah who was getting her master's degree in trumpet tootling at Temple University.

I mostly remember the inexpensive produce.

Mushrooms? $1.00!
Celery hearts? $1.00!
Strawberries? $1.00!
Bananas? $2.00!
But you get a whole bunch!
My third trip to Philadelphia was in December to interview at the University of Pennsylvania (which is NOT Penn State). This time I was able to enjoy my time there more and see more of the non-touristy sights.


(I knew Philadelphia was a good city when I found dreydlekh at the airport!)

My interview slot was the first of the day, 8:30 AM. I was quite glad my mom and I were able to arrive a couple days before the interview to get a bit more acclimated to the area and to the time change.


Interview day began with a gaggle of us sitting nervously in a classroom, waiting for our interviews. When the time came, I was led through a maze of elevators and hallways to the office of the professor who would be interviewing me.

It turned out that it was her first interview, too. And after a nice chat, I attempted to find my way back to our holding pen. While I was waiting for the elevator, another lost looking woman in a suit came by looking for her own trail of breadcrumbs.

When we boarded the elevator and confirmed we were both interviewees, she asked me, "Where do you hail from?" I immediately knew she was good people as before that, I was the only person I knew who uses that phrase in all honesty. "Portland, OR, and let's be friends," I replied.

We spent the rest of the day together. We learned all about how we each arrived at that place at that moment in time. It turned out her name is Genevieve and she's from Southern California. We were both applying for the same program (as we are both interested in working with women, but not so interested in birthing babies.) We went on the tour together, we ate lunch together, and we did the math to figure out that fewer than one in four of us would be asked to return together.

We kept in touch afterward through email and she even put me in touch with one of her roommates from college who showed me around Emory when it was in the running.

We both kept our fingers crossed and updated each other on each nursing school's response to us. When the University of Pennsylvania decisions were available, it turns out that Genevieve was part of the lucky 22% who were invited to be part of the Class of 2015 at Penn.

When I was planning out my cross-country route, I knew I would be passing Genevieve's neck of the woods in California and contacted her to see if she was available for a visit. The calendar told us that she would actually be in school at that point and we changed our meeting place to the City of Brotherly Love.


My arrival was a little bumpy as I had officially left the area of wide open plains and had entered the world of  jam packed cities were parking is nearly impossible.

I found a lot downtown that could shelter my car for the weekend, then I had to figure out how to get to Genevieve's with all of my luggage. Her apartment was a little over a mile away, and I decided to give walking a try. I shortly discovered that it was not going to work in the heat with that many bags and I flagged down a cab.

The cab I flagged stopped, along with another cab behind him who was really trying to get me to go with him instead. After a tense discussion between the two drivers, I hefted my suitcases in the trunk and we were on our way.

Thankfully, the Philadelphia taxis take credit cards and I reached into my purse to get ready to pay. But I couldn't find my card. I couldn't find my wallet!

I knew I'd used it earlier in the day, and my best guess was that it was back in the parking garage in my car. I sheepishly asked the taxi driver if he would turn around and let me check to see if I'd left something in my car.

When we arrived, I ran in and sure enough, my wallet had slipped down next to the seat. I ran back and we attempted Round Two of getting me a mile from my current location.

He dropped me off at the address Genevieve had given me, and I called her to confirm that she lives across from two Ethiopian restaurants. She does, and she came down to meet me and help me carry my stuff inside.

She lives in a huge brick home divided into four (not unlike the home I had in Portland). Her quarter of the house is in the top two stories and she shares it with three other entering nursing students. They each have different specialties (which won't really matter until after the RN portion), so they have enough in common and enough individuality to be helpful to each other but also have their own things going on.

I took a few minutes to recombobulate and we started to form a plan. I knew there were three things I wanted to do during my stay. Two of the three things were food related as I had some of the best food I've ever eaten when I was there in December. The third item on my list was to get a bang trim from the person who gave be the best bang trim I've ever gotten when I was there in December.

Genevieve had some ideas, too, and we decided to start with dinner at one of the restaurants on my list. My mom and I discovered Distiro in December and I could hardly wait to get back. It's a funky little tapas restaurant with pink walls, lucha libre masks, and delicious food!





After dinner, we walked to the Philadelphia Museum of Art (where they keep the famous Rocky stairs).


There we joined many people potentially on their traditional eighth grade eastern seaboard trip.

Genevieve had heard that there was a special deal on Fridays where the museums stay open late. When we arrived were buying our tickets, learned that there is a special deal on Fridays, but that this particular museum does not stay open late and we had about 45 minutes to see the whole museum.

We decided to go for it and speed-walked among the exhibits.

We started with the awesomely named Ralph Eugene Meatyard: Dolls and Masks.


Next, we zipped through the Rockwell Kent exhibit. I was pretty impressed by his work, including his self portrait:


Actually, my favorite piece of his was a drawing of wealthy men supported on a pedestal by strained members of the working class. It just proved that even though Kent was born in 1882 and died in 1971, the same story gets told over an over again.


We also zoomed through the permanent exhibit featuring all the famous artists like Picasso, Monet, Warhol, etc.

When the guards kicked us out, we took one last photo in front of the museum.



After that, we got on the bus to a bar downtown where they were having a benefit for a local non-profit. The bar is called Tattooed Mom and it has a very vintage/grungy vibe. 


We stayed for a little while and talked with the friend of a friend that invited Genevieve in the first place. We also met a guy who currently lives in Philly, but has also lived in Southern California and Seattle.

Afterward, we were both exhausted and headed back to the apartment. There, I got to meet all of Genevieve's roommates and learn a little more about them. One of them is from Massachusetts, another is from North Carolina but lived near Portland for a few years when she was little, and the last one likes to bake when she's stressed. (I know from living with Julia that that is the perfect kind of roommate!)

Tomorrow, Genevieve wants to get in a good bit of studying, but she thinks she can spare some time to visit a medical oddities museum and have some lunch out on the town!


Odometer Start: 40707
Odometer End: 40850
Miles Driven Today: 143
Miles Driven Total: 7012
Today In/Around: Philadelphia, PA
Tomorrow: Philadelphia, PA again
States Visited: 18.5 (Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Tennessee, Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, Delaware, Pennsylvania)
Times I've Passed a Billboard for Actors, Models, and Talent for Christ: 3 (Is it like the new Barbizon?)


Thursday, July 5, 2012

Day 29 - See DC

I've been to Washington DC three times in my life. Once in 1996 for the traditional eighth grade Eastern Seaboard trip. Again in 2006 with a friend whose brother lived in town. And today.

In 2006, I visited with my friend Sarah. Here we are together:


Her brother worked for the Defense Intelligence Agency (the DIA) and he showed us around town.

And while he may be amazing at his job, he might need a bit of work on his home defenses. On our last night, while we were sound asleep in the living room, I woke up to Sarah screaming, "Get out!"

I had noticed a shadow of someone in the room with us, but figured it was her brother or one of his roommates. Instead, Sarah recognized him as someone she did not recognize and ran up the stairs to her brother's room, as I followed shortly behind her.

Her brother went downstairs to handle with the intruder (while I looked around for a way to escape from his third floor window without breaking our legs). We heard him asking the man to leave, and watched from the top of the stairs as the man started to vomit and her brother brought him further into the house to get him to the bathroom.

We called the police and found out that this man was very drunk and thought he was in his aunt's house nearby. When he'd sobered up slightly he was very apologetic and someone suggested we all get a picture together.

One big scared to death family
With that as my last memory, I ventured into the city again.

This is the first time I noticed how historic and ever-changing DC is all at the same time. Not only does it change in terms of administrations, it also gains enormous national monuments. In 2006, the World War II memorial was new. And now, the MLK memorial is less than a year old.

I decided to take the DC the Lights! Washington DC night tour.

The tour began and ended at the Old Post Office, a building with a statue of Benjamin Franklin outside but which is hugely due to the efforts of Nancy Hanks. She was the head of the National Endowment for the Arts in the 1970s and the spearhead of the building's rejuvenation. 


We hopped on a blessedly air-conditioned bus and began our tour.

Our tour guide, Paul the permanent tourist, went up and down the aisles finding out who was on the bus with him, where we were from, and what our favorite subjects were. It turned out we were riding with a couple from Alabama, a couple from Australia, and a gaggle of teachers from Vancouver, WA.

And every kid's favorite subject was science. The precedent was set when the first kid answered science and Paul whooped his approval. When he got to me, I learned that he is a total nerd for science and his wife is the head of the pharmacy board in DC.

Our first stop was the US Capitol Building.
 

We toured the building in eighth grade (and I have a ton of pictures of the beautiful mural on the ceiling), but this time we just took pictures outside. 


I was all smiley faced until I remembered who works in there and what they've been up to. After that, I decided they deserved only a frowny face.


Paul was kind enough to offer to take pictures of those of us without a partner to do it for us. Here is a rare example of me not taking a picture of myself. 


Next, we drove past the Washington Monument


I don't remember noticing either of the other times I've been here that the Monument is made of two different colors of brick. The color changes about a third of the way up. The color change is due to the fact that building stopped due to the Civil War and lack of funds. It took 36 years to complete the 555' 5 1/8" structure.

And apparently it wasn't earthquake proofed! The Monument is closed and might remain closed until 2014 due to damage caused by the August 2011 earthquake.


On our way to the next stop, we passed this bunch. I could have taken a Segway tour of DC, but I just couldn't handle looking this silly cool in public.


Our next stop was the White House


It has 35 bathrooms, but we weren't invited to use any of them. It takes a whole heck of a lot of planning and forethought to get a tour of the place. Requests must be placed through Members of Congress -- which is a test in and of itself that people have to know who their Members of Congress are. 


My first time in DC was during the Clinton administration. My second time in DC was during the Bush administration. And now I'm here for Obama, the first winning president I voted for.


I am a huge fan of his and it was an honor to take a photo outside his house (although he was away at the time -- the teachers from Vancouver told me he called in to their conference from his bus).

For reference, this is the West Wing, to the right of the main building. 


And this is the OEOB, the Old Executive Office Building.


It's really beautiful up close. 


This is a long, but excellent clip from the West Wing. The last part of it is exactly why I wanted to take the night tour.


Our next stop was the World War II Memorial.

 
I remember seeing a commercial with Tom Hanks talking about the need to build a World War II Memorial, but I don't remember why it only happened sixty years after the fact. I asked the tour guide, but he didn't know the answer either.

Each of these 4048 stars represents 100 Americans who gave their lives in the war.


Again, Paul offered to take my picture. I tried not to look too happy standing in front of a war memorial. 


(By the way, the Memorial stands in honor of all who helped the country during World War II. They have the names of those who were killed in action, but they are also interested in gathering the names of soldiers who survived and those not in the armed services who assisted in the war efforts. If you would like to add a name to the registry, it can be done here. I am in the process of adding my grandfather.)

Our next stop was the Jefferson Memorial.


I took a picture outside from the top of the steps. One of the tourists next to me was saying that behind my head and far in the distance, you can just see the White House. It was purposefully designed that way.


This picture is entirely untouched. The night and the building really are that beautiful. 


Our next stop was new since I was last in the city. We went to the Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial that is less than a year old.

There has been much controversy surrounding the Memorial -- it was made in China, it contains an inaccurate quotation, it doesn't really look like him. At least, the pictures I saw of the Memorial didn't look like the pictures I saw of the man. But seeing it in person, I thought it was a much better likeness.




This is the controversial quote etched into the right side of the Memorial. It says, "I was a drum major for justice, peace, and righteousness" when the entire quotation it was taken from is, "If you want to say that I was a drum major, say that I was a drum major for justice. Say that I was a drum major for peace. I was a drum major for righteousness. And all of the other shallow things will not matter."


The great Maya Angelou had this to say about the controversy, "The quote makes Dr. Martin Luther King look like an arrogant twit . . .  It makes him seem less than the humanitarian he was . . . It makes him seem an egotist." She also pointed out, "The 'if' clause that is left out is salient. Leaving it out changes the meaning completely."

It has been decided that the current quotation will somehow be corrected. 

There are several other quotations written in an arch around the main statue. I particularly liked this one:


"I have the audacity to believe that people everywhere can have three meals a day for their bodies, education and culture for their minds, and dignity, equality and freedom for their spirits." I like this one because we now live in a country that can add health care to the list. 

This is the "mountain of despair" from which the "stone of hope" comes:


Next, we stopped at the Iwo Jima Memorial, also known as the Marine Corp Memorial.


Some of the women sitting next to me were saying that if you walk around it counterclockwise it looks like it's moving. But, I didn't notice the effect.

We then went to visit President Lincoln at his memorial


I knew our next stop was going to be the Vietnam War Memorial. The first time I visited the Memorial, in eighth grade, I searched the book at the site for anyone with my last name or my mother's maiden name. I didn't find anyone. This time, I had the ability to call each of my parents and ask if there was a name I could look up for them.

They each remembered the same two people they went to high school with. They both instantly remembered the name of the first gentleman, but were both fuzzy about the second. I looked up the name they both remembered (you can look up names online here). The listing have me the location of where to find his name etched on the wall.

My mom also reminded me that I'd seen another monument designed by Maya Lin. We saw it at Yale and I would have walked right by it if my mom hadn't read about it and told me what it was.


It's called the Woman's Table and it counts the number of women in each of Yale's graduating classes beginning when the school began in 1701. The first non-zero year is 1873 when the Silliman sisters graduated from the School of Fine Arts. The numbers end in 1993 because that was when the sculpture was completed.

When we arrived at the Vietnam Memorial, I went to 33 east and looked 81 rows down to find the name of my parent's classmate, Phelon Cole.


He was in Vietnam for less than six months before he was killed. He arrived in August 1967 and died in January 1968. Our tour guide said some young men arrived and died the same day.

We drove back to the Old Post Office and the tour guide and I chatted for a bit. He encouraged me to stay in touch and I set off to wrestle with DC's crazy subway system once again. (You pay based on exactly where you want to go and the fare depends on what time of day it is.)

As I was getting ready to yell at and kick the machine that wouldn't let me put $0.15 on my card -- it would only let me put $1.35 on the card, because you have to pay a dollar each time because you're reusing a piece of paper, yeah, I know -- the tour guide came by and helped me out.

We ended up riding the same train back to Virginia and I learned more about his love of literature and science and he learned more about my path to nursing.

Tomorrow, I'm off to tasty, tasty Philadelphia!


Odometer Start: 40707
Odometer End: 4070
Miles Driven Today: 0
Miles Driven Total: 6869
Today In/Around: Washington DC
Tomorrow: Philadelphia, PA
States Visited: 15.5 (Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Tennessee, Virginia, Washington DC)
Branches of Government: 3
Electoral College Votes for Oregon: 7
Members of the House of Representatives: 435
Amount It Cost for Me to Get Back to Virginia: $0.15
Amount It Actually Cost for Me to Get Back to Virginia: $1.35
Amount I Have Left on My DC Subway Card: $0.20 (but I'm holding on to it for next time!)